PictureCode is a company known for software called Noise Ninja that serves, as you can guess, to eliminate the dreaded sound of the photographs. Its founder, Jim Christian, has written a post on the Digital Photography Review forums announcing that the company is working on a RAW file converter that offers unprecedented image quality.

Apparently, this RAW editing software has existed for several months in private beta phase and users have been able to test, one Rob Galbraith, are very happy with the results it offers. Among other things, it seems that the noise reduction system that incorporates exceeds even that of Noise Ninja. This new conversation seems to operate with other platforms such as Lightroom , Photoshop or Photo Mechanic.

Christian has also announced that it expects the first analysis of the final version of this new and powerful RAW converter comes in about a month and soon will go on sale, but so far has not revealed what the cost. What has been announced is that users of Noise Ninja software can upgrade to a lower price.

PictureCode works in a powerful RAW converter is a post from: Digital Photography Lessons

The photographer himself was surprised at the number and variety of results achieved. In the opinion of Auber, the conclusions to be drawn are, first, that good photography is capturing 50% and 50% post-processing that beauty is in the eye of the beholder and that you always have to give our pictures a second chance.

28 ways to interpret a photograph is a post from: Digital Photography Lessons

Well, Tourist Remover offers just that. Simply make several photos of the same scene and this application will remove people or objects that we want, leaving a photo without unwanted interference. In its official website you have several examples of how this program works.

Delete the unwanted photos is a post from: Digital Photography Lessons

To facilitate the handling of zoom Nikon has equipped the Coolpix P510 a double control, something that was in the P500. Also kept the articulated LCD screen and electronic viewfinder and recording Full HD video clips. If I remember correctly, the main novelty of the new model is the inclusion of an integrated GPS tracking function.

Apart from that, the Nikon P510 is a camera with 16 megapixel sensor backlit, C2 EXPEED image processor, a shooting mode in three dimensions, a way to capture high dynamic range (HDR), manual controls, 16 scene modes , compatibility with Eye-Fi wireless cards X2 (or higher), retouching of images in-camera and a system of fast and accurate autofocus.

The new Coolpix P510 is powered by a rechargeable battery that allows up to 240 shots per charge. If no changes, the camera should hit stores later this month at an MSRP of $ 429 (slightly more expensive than the P500 at the time) and two different finishes: red and black.

Nikon Coolpix P510, zoom of 42 increases is a post from: Digital Photography Lessons

1_ Babies under one year

No matter what the meaning of the scene, the baby never “settles” evil, and that’s simply what the photographer needs to capture.

The first steps of a child should never be forgotten. In these cases we need to place the camera near the ground and preset photo parameters at some point where it is supposed to pass the child walking (several shots may be needed, although the book says nothing of “bursts” in modern systems may be appropriate use this advantage.).

2_ For children between one and two years

Get off your world, no matter how “crazy” look. If the child is on the ground, you must lie on the floor and wait for the right moment to achieve spontaneous photographs. If the child is in his first forays into self-feeding can occur very natural and unique situations. Never force a time, simply leave it and wait for the opportune moment to shoot.

It should not be frustrated in the first attempts, there may be times to take a good picture has to seal several times.

In the foreground is very important that the fund is as clear and simple as possible so as not to remove the child role.

3_ Children 2 to 4 years

Give them an activity or game and leave them, that they permeate the same, we must not talk about photography, in any case must be made to remember good times for them as a visit to the zoo, the carousel or made play with them with the camera ready with the variables of preset settings for shooting in the shortest time possible.

Tips for photographing babies and children is a post from: Digital Photography Lessons

Levels of photos can adjust by photo editing tools. The operation of this tool is very versatile and powerful, as for example in Photoshop, you can adjust the RGB, R, G or B (ie all channels can edit colors or color each level separately.

It works easily, a histogram with 3 points on their base: black (0), midtones (128) and white (255). It is very difficult to draw a picture with the optimal levels (technically does not exist), it is here that a small change with this tool to the levels of a photograph can be enhanced in an incredible way.

Most images are significantly better if you use the full tonal range (0 to 255) and that otherwise would look off. However, there are images that were taken in dull environments (fog, rain or some other effect) and “stretching” the range to 0-255 would be unrealistic.

To learn more about our photography and know where to locate the limits of the same tone, just press the “alt” key while adjusting any of these extreme levels.

Some precautions when using this tool is that it increases the risk of posterize the colors changing much of the histogram. Another precaution lies in changing the levels on individual channels would be lost colors and color balance of the picture.

HOW IT WORKS

The levels tool can move and stretch brightness levels in a histogram using three main components: a black point, white point and midtone slider. The position of the black and white point sliders redefine the histogram’s “Input” so they are mapped to the “Output” (default is black (0) or white (255), respectively), whereas the midtone slider redefines the location of middle gray (128). Each slider is shown below as they appear in Photoshop’s tool, with added blue labels for clarity:

All examples below will use the levels tool on an RGB histogram, although levels can also be performed on other types of histograms. Levels can be performed on an individual color channel by changing the options within the “Channel” box at the top.

Levels as a tool for photo editing | Photo Editing is a post from: Digital Photography Lessons

Definition (sharpness) describes the amount of detail in a photograph, is one of the most important variables in capturing the texture of the object. The picture definition is given by different parameters, these can be modified in a post-process or may be taken into account when shooting.

The traditional measure definition of image (sharpness) is stated in line pairs per millimeter abbreviated as lp/mm. In other words the ability of the human eye to discerned the number of high-contrast pairs of lines appearing in the space of a single millimeter.

One of the main parameters to consider is the sharpness (acutance), this describes the jump and the transition from one form to the next. So a sharp transition results in sharper images.

You may have read that some very high resolution B&W films can reach over 150 lp/mm. That’s amazing. Some really terrific lenses can actually resolve somewhat over 100 lp/mm. Wow.

On another important parameter is the resolution, it would certainly know that the higher the resolution, the greater is the definition that we can achieve.

The photographic equipment with which we will have a direct impact on our goal to capture the picture, the “acutance” of an image can be controlled by film ISO values ​​by the focus that we make the object or with a post-process of the acquired image. The resolution and the camera is directly available and to a lesser extent the ISO value is used. Recall that a high ISO setting or exposure slow going to get a much higher grain and sharpness getting less precise resolutions.

We also know that is not the same between definition and detail if we take an image at a short distance in a macro so that if we took a photo to a farther distance with a telephoto lens. All this influences the final definition of the image. It is necessary to average each of these values ​​to achieve the objective of our decision.

Definition in pictures, the most improtant variable is a post from: Digital Photography Lessons

Camera sensors are mechanisms that are responsible for capturing the information of the light beam which is then processed and presented to generate the image.

Most current camera sensors are cell arrays with micron “encapsulate the light” and gather the information needed to generate the picture.

Each cell in the array can not distinguish the different colors of photons entering it, so that each cell has to filter the color to come back each cell monochromatic (one color-capable by default).

But it as does the camera to distinguish many colors in each point? Well, each pixel is composed of 4 cells, each cell represents one of three primary colors red, green and blue (1R, 2G, 1B). Depending on the amount of photons hitting each cell is going to have a more or less intense, this next depends on the number of bits to work with each point color.

So to make it clear, each sensor cell is a small portion of the pixel, half of them are green and others red and blue, this is not by chance, the human eye is most sensitive to green light is why less granular will detect if predominantly green.

The edges of each cell in the array have microlenses that help direct each photon inside the cell, these microlenses can greatly optimize the sharpness of the final image.

Camera sensors: How do digital camera sensors? is a post from: Digital Photography Lessons

Within digital photography, many of them have become obsolete because they can easily emulated digital post-processing. Within this category fall, to name just a few examples, filters for black and white photography (filters red, yellow, green, etc..) And the filters creative offered by some manufacturers. However, there are many others who until today are just as essential as in analogue photography and can not be replicated digitally more effort made in Photoshop. Precisely for these filters is covered in this article.

UV Filter
Or rather an anti-UV, as it eliminates ultraviolet radiation while maintaining the other values. Ultraviolet light is invisible to the naked eye because they were outside the visible spectrum of light, but some of it is captured by the film causing loss of definition. They are widely used black and white film and color. Digital cameras usually have internal filters are effectively acting in the retention of UV rays. However, we always recommend having one of them placed permanently on the lens for protection against shock, accidental falls or unfavorable weather conditions.

Skylight Filter
Reduces excess blue color, especially in the shadows with a sky or on cloudy days. It also blocks ultraviolet radiation and is often used as a lens protector.

ND filter (neutral density)
The function of these filters, filters also called ‘gray’, is to absorb or block the passage of light to the lens in different degrees (densities) without altering the tone and contrast of the picture. They tend to be useful in different situations:

• When we work against the light or directly facing strong light sources (sun, snow, etc..) And the combination of lower aperture and fast shutter speeds are not sufficient for a correct exposure of the scene.
• When we register a movement or panning using low shutter speeds without image burn.
• When we use large aperture to reduce depth of field (eg. To isolate the subject from the background by blurring) where the speed we want to seal the sensitivity ASA / ISO with which we work or a large light intensity do not allow it to.

In all cases, their effects are difficult (or impossible) to reproduce using digital post-processing. A particular use of this lens you can see from this photo , where I used a ND filter and block for 25 seconds to get to capture the motion of the clouds. By not having a filter they probably would have come out overexposed photo, or the path of the clouds would not be so obvious and would have lost the picture drama. It is also very common to see pictures of rivers in broad daylight with the path of the water blurred, an effect that is obtained using low speeds and an ND filter to avoid burning the photo.

ND filters come with different numbers: ND 2, ND 4, ND 8. The number indicates the brightness points blocks, ie with an ND filter 8 will have to reduce the shutter speed or aperture at 3 points (8 = 2 ^ 3) for the exposure of the picture remains the same and would not use a filter.

Polarizing filter
There are basically two types of polarizers: linear and circular. The first were invented decades ago but with the advent of autofocus cameras have become obsolete, as it usually caused problems in that system. From that developed another type of polarizer, circular, that solves all the above problems.

Polarizing filters are constructed on the basis of two crystals, one fixed and the other rotation. This last feature is what allows us to scale the polarized incidence on the take.

Its effects are often very difficult to emulate with Photoshop: increases the saturation of high tones at the same time decreases the contrast and eliminates reflections from non-metallic (glass, water, snow, polished wood, etc.).. In the landscape can increase the intensity of green vegetation, accentuate the clouds on a blue sky and eliminate smog or fog on the horizon. Justin chromogenic.net demonstrated in a post , so visual and very clear, large differences in certain circumstances, whether to use or not use a polarizer.

IR Filter
Not exactly to block infrared waves, quite the opposite. These filters block all or part of the spectrum of visible light and only let infrared waves, invisible to our eyes. At first glance are completely black. However, a camera mounted on produce images of an almost surreal, with a little help from Photoshop, can be obtained very curious results .

FINAL TIPS
Buy filters in mind their quality, not price. The quality varies depending on the brand and the treatment they have crystals. As for brands, Hoya, B & W and Nikon are the highest quality, but also the most expensive. In a more economical range can be found Tiffen filters, Marumi, etc.. In any case and regardless of the brand, always make sure that the filters are of the type MC (Multi-coated), these treatments have anti-reflection on one or both sides that eliminate or greatly absorb unwanted flashes (the famous flares). The filters without antireflection treatment, besides not absorb stray light, causing loss of contrast, brightness and even loss of sharpness.

Remember you can combine multiple filters, for example screw a polarizer on a ND and then fixed to the camera. But keep in mind that more than two filters used at once, can produce adverse effects in the image.

If you are users of DSLR cameras and lenses have several different front thread sizes, buy filters to the maximum extent and in any event thread then use adapter rings (gearboxes, in this case) for minor measures. If there are digital camera users point-and-shoot or prosumer range (Sony F828, Nikon Coolpix 8800 et al), make sure that in fact the lens front thread possesses universal, and if so, find its diameter to know what As filter to buy.

Filters for Photography is a post from: Digital Photography Lessons

Through WeblogsInc arrived at PhotoPlus 6 – Image and Photo Editing Software , a program for editing digital images that have all the power you need if you can you’re not a professional photographer (or design) and above all free .

A 20Mb download ( Direct link here ) which surprised me because it allows you from cutting your photos, select sections, rotate, move, flip, use filters on top some Photshop plugins are compatible, adjust contrast, brightness and many other features not generally seen in these programs. One of the things I liked was the role of “remove red eye” that lets you remove red-eye effect from photos but today many cameras have special flash these still appear in the photos.

Another very good feature and I use a lot is the “clone” that allows you to erase parts of an image by taking the colors or shapes that appear in other parts of the photo and that is only surpassed by that of Photoshop. If you want to try something more interesting is lets you separate palettes, optimize photos for uploading to the internet and other things.

I repeat: free with many features, it’s worth trying.

PhotoPlus 6 is a post from: Digital Photography Lessons